
If you’re picturing your products on the shelves of Space NK or Sephora, I can see the appeal. A good stockist can introduce your brand to women who might never have found your website. But direct-to-consumer marketing has its own advantages, even when retail is on your wish list.
I’ve worked at billion-dollar beauty brands with no direct-to-consumer channel, whose websites functioned more like directories of stockists. Working there made being sought after by retailers seem rather less glamorous. Even with all that scale and recognition, we still had to work around stockists’ priorities when deciding what was best for our brand.
If customers can already buy directly from you, your DTC channel deserves attention alongside your retail ambitions. You can use it to learn what makes her buy and come back, improve the experience she has with your brand, and test what to offer her next.
In This Article
Direct-to-consumer, or DTC, means selling your brand’s products straight to customers through your own channels rather than through a stockist. Your website is one example; a physical shop or pop-up that you run yourself can be another. Direct-to-consumer marketing is how you attract customers to those channels and encourage them to buy from you again.
When I worked with brands that didn’t have a DTC channel at all, our campaigns and efforts had to support retailers’ commercial calendars. I’ve seen seasonal campaigns go live months before customers would actually be shopping for those products, simply because a stockist needed promotional support earlier.
We could also end up promoting an older collection because a retailer still had stock to sell, even when we’d planned to focus on something newer. And, just to make it more fun, that didn’t mean they’d give it the same attention on their own channels. They had plenty of other brands asking for promotion too, so we still had to negotiate for their support.
I once ran a consumer content programme where we’d send ‘regular’, non-influencer people products to create content with. It nearly fell apart over fulfilment because we just couldn’t get the parcels out. The brand’s operation was set up for retail distribution, not sending individual parcels to customers, and that lack of direct control over the stock nearly stopped the programme from happening several times.
These are constraints we had to deal with at the brands I worked with, not a blanket directive to rule out retail. Retail can still be a good move for your brand, but a stockist’s priorities won’t always match yours, and if all your sales go through retailers, you may be inadvertently limiting the decisions you can make independently.
What I liked about brands with their own DTC channels was that their websites could be a real, live part of their direct-to-consumer marketing, instead of a directory of retailers. With your own channel, you decide how your brand is presented and you have space to explain what makes each of your products worth buying without having to fit into a retailer’s product-page format.
For a campaign, you can launch your hero assets across social media, then give her much more to get involved with when she clicks through to your website. You could make the campaign interactive with a quiz or routine builder, or give her extended content that takes the idea further. You could even put together a bundle of complementary products chosen around the campaign’s theme, so she can try them together. And between campaigns, you can still decide which products to feature most prominently and which themes to develop, without pleading for a featured spot in the stockist’s edit.
And don’t get me wrong, a retailer’s website can help her discover your brand through a recommendation alongside another brand’s product. But that works both ways: the product recommended alongside yours might belong to a competitor. On your own website, you can show her which of your products complement her choice, encouraging trial across your range and helping to increase your average order value.
The relationship can continue with your brand after she buys, too. Her parcel can arrive in your packaging and you can follow up in your own voice. A post-purchase email can help her use what she’s ordered, and later messages can introduce her to more of your range, so your brand is the one she keeps hearing from. A retailer can offer a lovely service, but it’s still the retailer she hears from. Plus, I always found it awkward when someone came to our brand with a complaint and we had to send her back to the stockist. With a direct order, your team can handle that conversation and take responsibility for making things right.
At multinational beauty brands, collections are often planned 12–18 months ahead, with pressure to keep giving retailers something new. The retailer is a customer too: the brand relies on them placing another order, so it needs to help sell what they’ve already bought. That still depends on the women shopping there loving the products enough to buy them and come back for more.
It was an awkward loop where we needed her to keep buying so the retailer would keep ordering, but securing those orders sometimes meant doing what the retailer asked, even when we thought something else made more sense for the women buying our products. We were trying to keep both customers happy, and the one buying from us directly often had more influence over our plans.
For example, there was little room to give an existing favourite more attention than newer shades, even when customer interest suggested we’d get a better return on our marketing spend by promoting it.
Buyers and merchandisers also had a say in decisions about packaging or product sizes, since their confidence in the range influenced how much shelf space they gave us and where they put our products. Of course, we’d always prefer for that to be somewhere she could find us without asking a shop assistant for directions.
I’ve even worked with brands that have repackaged an existing product or changed nothing but its scent, then emphasised a benefit the original already offered, to give retailers something new to stock, often based on internet-trending terms. Sadly, DTC brands aren’t always above this either, but the need to pitch something new to buyers certainly adds to the pressure.
We also had to think about keeping things fair across stockists. An exclusive might be a great way to build a relationship with a retailer that had just the right audience for a particular activity, but what if the other stockists felt sidelined? We still needed their orders, too. So the retailer we most wanted to work with wasn’t automatically the one we could prioritise.
Having direct sales to rely on can give you some breathing room to do what’s best for your brand, because retail orders aren’t your only source of revenue.
I do find myself wondering how much that direct relationship contributes to the success of brands that started DTC and kept it after expanding into retail. But that’s a conversation for another day.
A retailer’s sales figures reflect the range it stocks, the women who shop there and what it chooses to promote. They’re useful, but just because a product is a slow seller in one store doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a product your target audience doesn’t want.
I’ve felt the other side of that as a customer, hunting for a ‘my lips but better’ lip liner for my medium olive skin. A retailer’s selection didn’t always include the shades I wanted, and with some brands I hadn’t realised how much wider the full range was. It was easy to assume a brand didn’t cater for my skin tone when the retailer simply hadn’t stocked a suitable shade.
Data from your DTC channel lets you analyse buying behaviour across your customer base and compare how different groups shop over time. Combined with customer feedback, it gives you evidence to test your assumptions about who your brand appeals to and what those women value about it. That can inform which customers you prioritise and whether your range and marketing need to change to serve them better.
Total sales can hide the different roles products play in your business. A bestseller supported mainly by repeat orders isn’t necessarily your strongest product for attracting new customers, so compare what women buy first before making it the focus of an acquisition campaign. When comparing repeat purchases, allow enough time for customers to use up their products. If you already sell through stockists, they’re also competing with your website for her next order. A retail reorder still shows demand for your brand, but it may be missing from your DTC records. A drop in direct reorders can therefore reflect a change of channel, rather than women losing interest in the product.
Differences in what customer groups buy can also help you assess whether a proposed addition to your range would appeal to your existing customers or require you to win over a whole new group of women. And if certain products regularly appear in the same orders, you have a basis for testing a set or recommending them together, informed by what women already buy.
With your own channel, you also know what you were promoting when those orders came in. If two products sold well together while you featured them on your homepage as a discounted set, you can compare that with orders when the offer wasn’t running. Likewise, a product that sold less may have had far less visibility. You might keep the set for occasional promotions if women rarely buy it at full price, or give the slower seller more visibility before deciding whether to remove it from your range.
You can also use your DTC data to investigate why women leave without buying or don’t return after their first order. When visits grow but orders don’t, compare how women shop after finding you through social media, search or another website. If they leave the first page, does it show what the link they clicked promised? Those who view a product but don’t add it to their cart may need more convincing about what it does for them or why it’s worth the price. And if they’re searching your site but getting no results, compare their wording with your product names and descriptions to work out whether your range is missing something they want or your site simply isn’t recognising their language.
If women are adding products to their carts but leaving without ordering, look at where they stop and try those steps yourself on mobile and desktop. A drop-off when delivery charges or payment options pop up is a reason to check for unexpected costs, unsuitable delivery times or a payment method that doesn’t work. She may already want the product, so checking whether she can place the order makes more sense than immediately writing more copy to convince her–but do make sure you have your abandoned-cart emails set up too.
Once women are buying, returns and repeat purchases help you assess whether the experience lives up to what your marketing led them to expect. If returns are increasing, compare the reasons with your photography, copy and advertising to see whether you’re overselling a benefit or leaving out information that would have changed her choice. And if fewer women are reordering, look at whether that’s happening across your entire customer base or mainly among those who first bought through a particular offer. You can then investigate whether that offer attracted women who were only interested in the deal, or whether issues with the product quality or fulfilment process are putting off customers who might otherwise have returned.
If customers aren’t finding you, buying, or coming back, our five-minute Brand Consult Quiz helps you recognise patterns in your brand that could explain why–so you’re better informed before spending on another fix.
Repeat DTC orders give a buyer evidence that women keep buying after they’ve tried your products. You’re also offering them a nice head start, having customers you can send their way when you announce the partnership or who might already recognise your name and packaging when browsing their range.
Think of Rhode: it generated $212 million in DTC net sales in the 12 months to 31 March 2025, and Sephora recorded more than two million unique searches for the brand on its site and app before the September 2025 launch. Those customers are incredibly useful when it’s time to discuss the terms of your partnership, too. The founder of Scotch Porter, a men’s grooming brand, credited the brand’s loyal DTC following with helping it negotiate ‘pretty good’ wholesale margins with a retailer.
Your DTC sales and customer research give you evidence to use when assessing a potential stockist. Research its customer base and existing range, alongside discussions with the buyer, to judge whether it could reach more of the women you want. Your repeat-purchase figures can also support the assortment you propose. While the buyer is deciding whether to stock your brand, you’re weighing up whether the retailer fits your plans, too. Ask all the questions you need to and take your reservations seriously.
Include the launch and ongoing marketing plan in those discussions. Agree what the retailer will provide and what it expects from you, so you can budget for your part (like samples or staff training, for example) before committing. That lets you judge what you can afford and what would have to change in your DTC marketing plans to fund it.
If the proposed rollout would require too much cash or stock upfront, discuss other ways of launching. Mara’s founder, Allison McNamara, found that launching at Sephora online before going into stores helped with cash flow. You could also discuss starting with selected stores, using where your DTC customers live to help make the case for particular locations.
Your own DTC channel is worth getting a little excited about, even if it’s been there since day one. As you plan your brand’s growth, think about what you’d like women to experience with it that you haven’t made happen yet. Your next move may be something you can try through the channel you already have, alongside the new opportunities you’re pursuing.
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